Antique Brown Mahogany Finish
Mahogany wood is very popular in the furniture industry.
Mahogany wood is widely used as a raw material to make many furniture products.
Various models and kinds of furniture products can be made with mahogany wood.
Many finishing models can be generated from the mahogany furniture to furniture
products with nice looks and interesting appearance.
In this article we want to share a finishing process to
produce antique brown mahogany color. It is a finishing with mahogany brown
color with antique look.
Here is the finishing process, step by step.
- Application of sap stains and equalizer stain.
Mahogany wood naturally has variation in base color, ranging from light color at the sap wood to the reddish
brown at the heartwood. The color variation should be anticipated to obtain the
uniform final finishing color. A process to uniformize the wood base color is
needed at the earliest finishing step to produce the uniform final finishing. The
color alignment is done with the application of sap stains and equalizer
stains. The brown sap stain is sprayed on the sapwood to bring the light color
of the sapwood to brown as the heartwood color.
While a green equalizer stain is sprayed to kill the red wood part. The green color will equalize the red color to make a brown color. If the application of sap stain and equalizer stain is well done, then an even, uniform wood base color is achieved.
While a green equalizer stain is sprayed to kill the red wood part. The green color will equalize the red color to make a brown color. If the application of sap stain and equalizer stain is well done, then an even, uniform wood base color is achieved.
- Application of body stain
A brown toner stain is wet sprayed to the overall surface evenly.
Wait for several minutes until the
stain layer is completely dry.
- Sealer application.
Spray 1 layer of sealer evenly to the wood surface and wait until the sealer is dry. Usually
it needs about 30 minutes to let the sealer dry.
Make
sure the sealer layer is dry, and then sand the sealer. The sanding for the
first sealer is purposed to cut the wood fibers that are stiffening as the result
of the sealer coating. Sand the entire sealer surface until all the wood fibers
are cut off and a smooth surface is achieved. Use sandpaper with # 280 or # 320
grade for the sanding sealer process.
- Glaze application.
Brush
the glaze to the layer surface sealer evenly and to fill and color the
inside of the pore, grain, crevices, and inside the carving. Make sure the glaze
fills the wood grain, pore, inside of the carving, and layering the surface
evenly, and then do the highlights to the glaze. Wipe off the glaze layer at some parts to enhance the wood grain and to make the “hangs up” on the crevices and carvings and to give a more live appearance of brown color to the
finishing layer.
Wait about 1 hour until the glaze layer is completely dry.
It takes about 30 minutes to let the sealer dry, then sand the sealer. The second layer of sealer is usually smooth because there are no more wood fibers on the wood surface. However, the sanding is needed to remove the orange peel and a rough surface caused by the particles of the glaze. Use sandpaper # 280 or # 320 grade and do the sanding evenly to allover surface.
Wait about 1 hour until the glaze layer is completely dry.
- Sealer application.
It takes about 30 minutes to let the sealer dry, then sand the sealer. The second layer of sealer is usually smooth because there are no more wood fibers on the wood surface. However, the sanding is needed to remove the orange peel and a rough surface caused by the particles of the glaze. Use sandpaper # 280 or # 320 grade and do the sanding evenly to allover surface.
- Dry brush glaze
Wait few minutes to allow the glaze to dry.
- The application of top coat.
antique brown mahogany finish
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